Exploring Kagurazaka Through the Eyes of Natsume Soseki, Famous for Works like I Am a Cat

The Yose were traditional Japanese theaters where performances like Rakugo (comic storytelling) and Kodan (narrative storytelling) were held. Kodansha, the second-largest publishing company in Japan, also derives its name from ‘Kodan,’ reflecting the past popularity of Kodan performances. Today, only four Yose theaters remain in Tokyo: Shinjuku Suehiro-tei, Asakusa Engei Hall, Ikebukuro Engeijō, and Suzumoto Engeijō in Ueno.

Soseki had a great fondness for Rakugo and Kodan and frequently visited Waradana-tei. In his later years, Soseki lived just a 10-15 minute walk from Kagurazaka, at what is now the Shinjuku City Natsume Soseki Memorial Museum. Kagurazaka was the closest entertainment district to his home, and his novels describe dining in various restaurants there.

A Kodan Performance at Shimakin, Oldest Restaurant in Kagurazaka

The Kodan at Shimakin was performed by Shorin Hakuchi, a Shin-Uchi (senior storyteller). The story featured was Aitaro’s Revenge by Norihiko Yamaguchi, who is also a guide for walking tours around Kagurazaka. Shorin Hakuchi is from Mito, Ibaraki Prefecture, and since ‘Aitaro’ sought revenge in the Mito Domain, she was selected to perform for this event. Additionally, Shorin serves as an ambassador for Mito City.

Experience Kagurazaka: Geisha Banquets, Kodan, and Rich Cultural Heritage

I highly recommend visiting Kagurazaka, where you can experience a variety of tours, including walking tours, izakaya hopping, geisha banquets, wagashi workshops, Zen meditation, Ukiyo-e studio, and kumihimo (traditional braiding) workshops. Kagurazaka is still relatively unknown to foreign tourists, making it a hidden gem worth exploring for those seeking something off the beaten path.