The Kagurazaka Geisha District Recovered Earlier Than the Other Five Districts in Tokyo

This is the fourth installment in our Kagurazaka Shopping District Interview Series, featuring Ayumi Terada, the proprietress of Yukimoto, one of Kagurazaka’s most distinguished ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurants).

Founded in 1948, just after World War II, Yukimoto is celebrating its 77th anniversary this year. Ayumi Terada, the third-generation proprietress, inherited Yukimoto from her grandmother, the founder of the establishment. Kagurazaka, which had access to water transportation via the Outer Moat and the Kanda River, was able to revive its geisha district earlier than other geisha districts after the war.

Yukimoto features seven Sukiya-style private rooms, including a large banquet hall accommodating up to 40 guests. While guests can enjoy traditional kaiseki cuisine and a variety of experiences, hosting a geisha banquet remains one of the primary ways to enjoy Yukimoto. As the largest ryotei in Kagurazaka, one of Tokyo’s six remaining geisha districts, Yukimoto plays a central role in preserving this unique culture.

Experiencing the Geisha District’s Sensitivity to the Seasons

Terada emphasizes the importance of appreciating the geisha district’s distinctive way of expressing the seasons.

The geisha district is a tightly woven cultural community that includes geisha, ryotei, Kenban (geisha registries that also serve as training centers), Okiya (geisha houses), and traditional performing arts masters (such as shamisen and dance instructors). Within this world, the expression of seasonal beauty is highly valued in various aspects, including:

• The kimono and hair accessories of the geisha, which change monthly

• The seasonal themes of songs and dances performed

• The seasonal ikebana (flower arrangements) displayed in the ryotei

• The seasonal ingredients and presentation of traditional cuisine

Terada encourages guests to pay attention not only to the geisha’s elegant performances but also to the details of their kimono, hairpieces, and overall seasonal presentation.

At Yukimoto, the seasonal atmosphere is reflected in:

• The hanging scrolls in the tokonoma (alcove)

• The ikebana arrangements and vases

• The kimono worn by the proprietress and attendants

• The carefully selected seasonal ingredients in the cuisine

The Essence of Seasonal Cuisine at Yukimoto

Japanese cuisine places great importance on seasonality, which is divided into three phases:

1. “Hashiri” (early season) – The first appearance of a seasonal ingredient, considered auspicious

2. “Sakari” (peak season) – When the ingredient is at its best

3. “Nagori” (late season) – The final availability of the ingredient before it disappears

Among these, “Hashiri” (the first of the season) is particularly significant. For example, Fuki-no-tou (butterbur sprouts) typically reach their peak in February or March, but at Yukimoto, they are served as early as January to celebrate their arrival.

The Secret Behind the Exquisite Dashi (Japanese Broth)

At Yukimoto, dashi (broth) is the most carefully crafted element of the cuisine. While traditional Japanese dashi is typically made from katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) and kombu (kelp), Yukimoto goes beyond the standard, incorporating:

• Maguro-bushi (dried tuna flakes) for deeper umami

• A combination of different Katsuo-bushi (dried bonito flakes) varieties – both with and without bloodlines – to create a perfectly balanced broth

This meticulous attention to detail is what elevates the flavors of Yukimoto’s cuisine.

Preserving Culture Through “Yukimoto-kai” and “Kagura Goyomi”

Yukimoto regularly hosts cultural events such as “Yukimoto-kai” and “Kagura Goyomi”, aimed at preserving and promoting Japanese performing arts and the hanamachi culture.

“Yukimoto-kai” (The Yukimoto Gathering)

This event began 26 years ago as a way to support the local community during Japan’s long economic slowdown after the economic bubble burst. As guest numbers declined, so did opportunities for Kagurazaka’s geisha to showcase their artistry. Yukimoto-kai was established to support the geisha community and ensure the continuity of their performances.

“Kagura Goyomi”

• Hachioji Kuruma Ningyo (traditional puppetry)

• Wazuma (Tezuma) – Japan’s traditional magic performance

• Hokan-gei – The unique art of Taiko-mochi (traditional male entertainers, akin to jesters)

Terada humbly states, “I simply invite performances that I personally want to see.” However, her commitment to revitalizing traditional Japanese culture is truly remarkable.

From the Stage to the Ryotei – The Unique Perspective of a Former Actress

Her background in acting gives her a deep understanding of the emotions and expressions of geisha performers. This is why she encourages guests to pay close attention to the grace of geisha movements, including:

• The delicate positioning of their fingers

• The elegance of their footwork

Having visited Yukimoto several times myself, I have had the privilege of witnessing geisha performances up close.

Conclusion

Through seasonal aesthetics, exquisite cuisine, and the refined art of geisha, Yukimoto offers an unparalleled cultural experience in the heart of Kagurazaka.

Ryotei “Yukimoto” Information

Address: 4-7 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo

Closed: Sunday & Holidays